Son John is visiting me here in paradise, and the other day he went to the North Shore to witness the Eddy surf contest, named for the famous surfer Eddie Aikau. It’s held rarely and only when the surf meets certain conditions. On this day the waves were 50-60 ft. and conditions were ideal. Surfers came from all over the world, and 28 of the best are chosen to compete.
John took a few pictures, but it’s just impossible to catch the awesomeness of the ocean and the height of the waves. I’ve been up there on such a day and it’s a sight you never forget.
On another day, years ago, Gene and I went to this shore on a Sunday afternoon. The ocean was beautiful and the waves just nicely moving in. We spread out a mat and sat down to rest, to read, to watch. We were far from the shoreline, up a sandy hill, and right beside the lifeguard tower. Then the most remarkable thing happened. We were suddenly looking through water. A rogue wave had reached up and curled over us. We were then pulled by the wave toward the ocean and we both fought like crazy, grabbing our hands and our toes into the sand. All of our things were swept away but we made it up the hill again, to our car. Even the lifeguard had not seen this huge wave coming toward us. Our hair was matted thick with sand, and our clothes full of sand. We got into the car, and still stunned, drove straight home. On the evening news we heard: A couple was nearly swept away by a huge wave on the North Shore. They left the scene before anyone could get their name, but their escape from the ocean was witnessed by several people.
There are just some experiences one never forgets. John will never forget the surf and the surfing he saw at the Eddy. Gene and I never forgot the world we saw from inside a wave.